Holiday Alpine Trekking

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Govt. Reged. No. 114069/070/071   |   Tourism Regd. No.: 1605   |   PAN No.: 601244889

Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak 6160m, situated at the head of the Imja Valley, an area that branches out east from the Khumbu Valley at Pheriche and ventures to the north side of Ama Dablam alongside the Imja River, is one of the most climbed peaks for in Nepal’s Khumbu (Everest) Region. Island Peak was first climbed by a team of mountaineers that included Tensing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, as a preparation and acclimatization for the first ascent of Everest in 1953.

The reason for the popularity of the climb is an easy technical aspect of the climb however should not be taken lightly and it requires a considerable amount at high altitude of 5000m and above, often in difficult weather, on slopes that need a good range of basic mountaineering skills on 50 degree ice and a broad knife edge ridge to the summit.
Eric Shipton named it Island peak in 1952 because the mountain reminded him of an island surrounded by a sea of ice. Island Peak is situated in the middle of three glaciers with the Lhotse Glacier on its north, the Lhotse Shar Glacier to the east and the Imja Glacier on its south side. It Nepalese name Imja Tse was created in 1983.
View from summit:
Island peak offers superb panorama views of the Khumbu area with imposing and stunning beyond the imagination 3000m/9800ft Lhotse South Face with the mighty peaks Nuptse, main Lhotse summit 8500m/27,870ft, Lhotse Middle Peak as yet still not climbed and Lhotse Shar. To the east of this classic trekking peak rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, which inspired the Island Peak name, are the Cho Polu 6734m/22,080ft and the red granite mass of Makalu 8,475m/27,790f. To the south Baruntse 7129m/23,389ft towers over 1000m/3300ft above Island Peak and majestic Amadablam 6812m/22,349ft raises to the west of Baruntse. Everest and Kanchenjunga are hidden behind Lhotse and Makalu respectively.
The climbing strategy:
View aside the attraction of Island Peak Climbing is its accessibility to moderate climbers as independent objective and to adventurous trekkers as a guided objective. The island Peak Climb is typically done with an acclimatization hike to the Everest Base Camp. For more energetic climbers Lobuche East Peak, Pokalde or even Mera peak is a worthy objective to climb in conjunction with Island Peak Climbing.
In order to reach the summit you’ll be expected to be able to climb Alpine PD (some technical climbing and complicated glaciers), however guides will fix ropes up the steep headwall section to reach the summit ridge by their clients who just clipped in an ascender and sort of seemed to self-belay and climb up.
Island Peak Base Camp (Pareshaya Gyab 4970m) is situated in a flat rocky area between the south east ridge of Island Peak and the edge of the Imja Lake. The climb from BC is long and strenuous and it adds an extra 2 hours, on rocky and steep however safe path of rock and Icefall to reach the summit and it guarantees late finish. We plan a contingency day to account for weather and requirements of staying overnight in the Advanced Camp (5600m) for weaker clients. The route to the summit is normally free from avalanche risk, however, at night and after rain or snow, the rocks can become very slippery.
We aim to reach the summit by midday at the latest since it will take another 4-5 hours to get back to BC, which means leaving at midnight.
The climb
From the Advance camp it will take 2-3 hours scrambling through a long rocky gully by itself not difficult challenging in the dark with steep terrain and potentially slippery rocks. It should allow us to be close to the snow line at dawn, from where we rig-up for crevasse protection before the climb.
The climb starts after a short and fairly flat area with a steep snow and ice ramp, about 200m long, that leads towards a narrow ridge and then, finally, the short climb towards the small summit. From the snow ramp onwards, the Sherpa guides will set up fixed ropes in order to protect climbers on this final steep and exposed section in particular with strong wind conditions. The guides may also set up fixed ropes on the final ridge as well.
For the climb you will require to use an ascender device a belay device for descent. It is vital that you know how to use these simple pieces of equipment before you start the climb and our guides will help our clients to familiarize themselves or refresh the technique. In addition you will also require setting of karabiners and Prussik loops.

Day to day itinerary

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu (1300m) 
Day 02: Preparation day 
Day 03: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2620m) about 3 hours walking 
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m) about 6 hours walking 
Day 05: (Namche Bazaar – Namche Bazaar) 
Day 06: Namche to Tengboche (3870m) about 6 hours walking 
Day 07: Tenboche to Dingboche (4410m) about 5 hours walking 
Day 08: (Dingboche to Dingboche) Rest day 
Day 09: Dingboche to Lobuche (4930m) about 6 hours walking 
Day 10: Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5,160m) then hike up to Kala Patthar (5,545m) back to Gorak Shep 7 hours walk 
Day 11: Gorak Shep to the Everest Base Camp (5,365m) then back to Lobuche (4,930m) about 7 hours walk 
Day 12:  Lobuche to Chukkung (4,710 m) about 6 hours walk 
Day 13: Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp: (5,200m) about 4 hour walk. Stay overnight in tented camp 
Day 14: Base Camp to High Camp (5600m) about 3-4 hours walk 
Day 15: High Camp to summit (6160m) to Base Camp to Chhukung about 8-10 hour walk 
Day 16: Reserve day for unforeseen weather conditions 
Day 17: Chhukung to Tengboche (3,870m) about 6 hours walks 
Day 18: Tengboche to Namche Bazaar about 5 hours walk 
Day 19: Namche Bazaar to Lukla about 6-7 hour walk 
Day 20: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu 
Day 21: Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Day 22: Final Depatrue
Short Itinerary for Island Peak Climbing:
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu (1300m) 
Day 02: Preparation day 
Day 03: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2620m) about 3 hours walking 
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m) about 6 hours walking 
Day 05: (Namche Bazaar – Namche Bazaar) 
Day 06: Namche to Tengboche (3870m) about 6 hours walking 
Day 07: Tenboche to Dingboche (4410m) about 5 hours walking 
Day 08: Dingboche to Chhukung (4730m)
Day 09: Rest day, climb up Chhukung Ri (5,546m) and trek back to Chhukung: 3/4 hours walks
Day 10: Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp: (5,200m) about 4 hour walk. Stay overnight in tented camp 
Day 11: Base Camp to High Camp (5600m) about 3-4 hours walk 
Day 12: High Camp to summit (6160m) to Base Camp to Chhukung about 8/10 hour walk 
Day 13: Reserve day for unforeseen weather conditions 
Day 14: Chhukung to Tengboche (3,870m) about 6 hours walks 
Day 15: Tengboche to Namche Bazaar about 5 hours walk 
Day 16: Namche Bazaar to Lukla about 6/7 hour walk 
Day 17: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 18: Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Day 19: Final Depatrue
Note: If you have time to stay in Nepal we will arrange you accordingly such as a Chitwan jungle safari tour, Lumbini, Pokhara, Nagarkot tour, Rafting etc.
                                                                               ”Please give us the chance to help you again”
Please, contact us for price and further information:

Trip cost Includes / Excludes

Cost Include(s)

  • All Airport – Hotel – Airport transfer
  • 3 meals per day during the trek (Breakfast Lunch Dinner) including Tea/coffee and hot water
  • Best suited accommodation during the trek
  • Tents for camping and kitchen, dining, toilet tents, mattresses, kitchen equipments for camping trek
  • An experienced Guide, Assistant Guide (5 trekkers : A.G), and porter (as you need) to carry luggage during the trek
  • All salaries, insurance, equipments, transportation, meals and accommodation for the Nepalese crew members
  • All Government Paper works and Permits for the trekking (TIMS Card/ National Parks/ Conservation area fees)
  • All grounded transportation and airfare during the trek
  • Group climbing equipments such as rope, ice screws, snow pickets, etc.
  • Climbing Guide, his equipment allowance and salary
  • Additional porters for carrying climbing gears
  • Island peak climbing permit fee
  • All Governments and Local Taxes
  • Special area trekking permit fee
  • Holiday Alpine Trekking kit bag and T-shirt


Cost Exclude(s)

  • Nepal entry visa fee
  • International airfare and airport taxes
  • Items of personal expenses such as alcoholic drinks, mineral waters, cold drinks, laundry bills, cigarettes, phone calls etc.
  • The extra cost of the shower, battery charge
  • Personal travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal climbing equipments
  • Rescue charge if needed (we can arrange), any kind of unforeseen expenses etc.
  • Personal trekking equipment
  • Gratitude/Tips for the Crew

Fix Departure Dates

Date(s) not available

Trip Note

Trip Hightlights
  • Climb Island Peak
  • Climb Kala Pattar & visit Everest Base Camp
  • Stunning views of Mount Everest & Ama Dablam
  • Sherpa Culture and Monastery
  • Fully supported camping based trek & climb including 3 hearty meals per day prepared by our cooks
  • Ample acclimatisation days built in
  • Himalayan Mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
  • Sightseeing in Kathmandu 


Trip Equipment

 Upper Body:

One T-shirt Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200.
Two long Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 long sleeve shirts.
One polar fleece pullovers, light-medium weight.
One polar fleece jacket.
One Gore-Tex waterproof and breathable shell with large hood to accommodate a climbing helmet.
Lightweight down jacket for chilly days in base camp or warm layer when stopping for short breaks.
One very warm goose-down with the hood.
Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff
sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
One pair of lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, handling rope and gear requiring dexterity
One pair of very warm polar fleece gloves
One pair of Gortex mittens or heavy gloves for the climb at night.
Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears
Light Balaclava
Neck sleeve
Baseball cap or brimmed sun cap
Glacier Sunglass with side shields
Spare sunglasses for the trek
Lower Body:
Icebreaker Merino 150 underwear briefs
One pair walking shorts
One pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp
One pair Icebreaker Merino 150 weight thermal bottoms for
the climb and the sleeping bag
One pair Gore-Tex trousers shell, waterproof/breathable
with full side zips
Soft shell climbing pants.
One pair sturdy leather or synthetic (Gortex) hiking boots
with good ankle support for the walk to high camp
One pair cross-trainers, running shoes for lodge and in camp
Two pair heavy poly or wool socks
One Pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
One pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool
Personal Hygiene:
Personal hygiene supplies.
Sun cream SPF 30+
Toothpaste and toothbrush
Hand Sanitiser
Synthetic towel
Hand wipes

Photos & Vedio Gallery

Trip Gallery

Photo(s) not found.

Trip Facts

Trip Destination:
Island Peak Climbing
Todal Duration:
21 Days
Group Size :
Minimum 2
Best Season:
March-May, Sept-Nov
Max. Altitude :
6160m/ 20196 ft
Domestic Aeroplane
Trip Cost :
$Price on request

Client Reviews


We have been many trekking tours with Holiday Alpine Trekking, led by Ngima Sherpa and team, and each one has been excellent: Mustang Valley (Upper Mustang ... More


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